Contrasting Memories While the trip to Eastern Europe holds a variety of memories for me, two experiences stand out vividly. The first was when we visited Pécs and the parents of our guide, Réka. After walking around the quaint city, visiting churches (including the one where she was married) and several museums, we went to her parents' home. They had prepared a lavish meal: two soups (pheasant and cherry), several entrees including boar and venison, a variety of salads, rice, potatoes, noodles, tomatoes, and, finally, ice cream and cherry pastry. Beyond the scrumptious food, though, the kindness they displayed to us was unforgettable. We saw a side of Hungary that few tourists ever see.Réka's parents opened their home and their hearts to us. Several of us had tears in our eyes when we had to leave. The second experience involved a small group of us taking a side trip to Krakow (Cracow), Poland. It was a confusing time. I will always remember the train ride. We were unsure which car to board, and one member of our group was not allowed on at first. A woman kept demanding the ticket which we had already given to another conductor. Finally, we found our cubicles and crawled in for the night. However, we slept lightly, for a man had told us there would be police and dogs at the border. The search did not happen. Riding the train gave me a disturbing feeling though. How different it would have been if I were Jewish, riding on these same tracks 60 years ago--headed to Auschwitz. When we visited Auschwitz and Birkenau, the bright red flowers against the green grass made the brick buildings seem almost pretty--until I realized what kinds of torture went on within the walls--within the fence. I could hear the silent cries in this "factory of death." The train tracks leading into Birkenau reminded me of Sophie's Choice. I wondered as I looked at the living conditions how anyone could have left there alive. Our train ride back to Prague was less eventful than our trip to Krakow.Again, as we passed Auschwitz, I thought how lucky I was to be leaving. Yet its memory will always haunt me. E-MAIL